Widely available in northern Italy and Tuscany, mostarda is a wintertime condiment for meat dishes, such as bollito (boiled meats), or roasts. A permanent fixture on Christmas tables in the northern regions, mostarda was widely available in the 17th century in Vicenza, Mantua, and especially Cremona, the city with which mostarda is now always associated.
Beware of possible confusion, though: the name is related to the French moutarde, which refers to mustard. But mostarda is very different. It’s made with mixed fruit (pears, apples, mandarins, figs, apricots, peaches, and cherries in the basic Cremona recipe), sugar, and mustard essence. And it almost always has a fiery kick.
Each place has its own
Monks prepared the mostarda in Cremona to have on hand for the winter months when the monasteries were isolated from the rest of the world. Supplies had to be prepared sufficiently in advance and easy to preserve.
The versions from Vicenza is made with a base of quince pulp cooked in sugar. In Piedmont, it’s made with grape must (Barbera, Strawberry grapes) to which quince, Madernassa pears, and toasted hazelnuts are added – perfect with cheeses like Castelmagno, Robiola, and the exquisite Tuma dla Paja from the Langhe. According to an ancient Tuscan recipe, the mostarda, which is prepared at the beginning of the grape harvest, has a base of black-skinned Canaiolo grapes, mixed with candied citron.
Here are our recipes for making mostarda at home.
Cherry Mostarda
Remove the pits from 9 oz. cherries and cut them in half. Cook them for 10-12 minutes in a pot with 1/4 cup of sugar, 1 ounce of dry white wine, the juice of half a lemon, and a pinch of salt. Remove from the heat, add 3-4 drops of mustard essence and let cool. If you can’t find mustard essence, ½ oz. mustard powder dissolved in a little warm white wine and water.
Apricot Mostarda
In a pot, heat 1¼ cup sugar with 2 cups water until it reaches 212°F, then add 1 lb. apricots cut into wedges. Cook for 3-4 minutes, let cool, then add 6 drops mustard essence. Transfer the mostarda to airtight jars, store in the refrigerator, and eat within one month.
Fig Mostarda
Peel 2¼ lb. figs and cut into pieces. In a pot, heat ½ cup dry white wine, 2½ cups of sugar, and 1 cup of water. When it reaches a boil, cook for 2 minutes, add the figs, and continue cooking for 20 minutes (the liquid should become syrupy). Remove from the heat and let cool. Add 5 -7 drops of mustard essence, depending on how spicy you'd like it. Transfer the fig mostarda to jars, cover, and seal, and let sterilize for 20 minutes.
Peach Mostarda
Halve and pit 2¼ lb. peaches, leaving the peel on. Cook these in 1 cup and 3 cups sugar, then place on a rack to cool. When cooled, peel and place them in airtight jars. In the meantime, prepare the mostarda syrup by bringing to a boil 1½ cups sugar with cinnamon, cloves, 1 tsp.f black peppercorns, ¼ cup vinegar, and ½ cup dry white wine. Let boil for 15 minutes. Add 2 Tbsp. mustard powder, stir and then strain the hot syrup over the cooled peaches in their jars – sterilizing isn't necessary. The mostarda is ready to eat in one week, but it keeps for about 4 months when stored in a dark, ventilated place.
Squash Mostarda
Slice 1 pound squash and simmer the slices for 3 minutes in a syrup made with 3 cups sugar, 10 oz. water, and 1 Tbsp. lemon juice. Remove from the heat and let the squash rest in the syrup for 10 minutes. Return the pot to the stove and simmer for another 5 minutes, let rest for 15 minutes, then simmer for another 5 minutes. Finally, remove the squash slices and let the syrup cool. Add 5 drops of mustard essence to the syrup. Transfer the squash to a jar, add the syrup, close the jar, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours before eating. For the best result, use squash flesh that's firm and dry.
Tomato Mostarda
Carefully wash 1 lb. tomatoes, cut into wedges, and sprinkle with salt. Let them sit for half a day to release their liquid. After, squeeze out the liquid, and place in a pot with 2½ cups sugar, ½ cup red wine vinegar, 14 oz. water, 1 bay leaf and cloves. Boil for 3-4 minutes, remove from the heat, and let rest for 12 hours. Drain the tomatoes from the syrup and place them in a jar. Add 10-12 drops of mustard essential oil to the syrup (add more or less according to your preference), stir, and pour over the tomatoes. Close the jar and sterilize it for 25 minutes.