Hot chocolate is one of the winter season’s best perks. This decadent beverage soothes the soul and lifts the spirits on any cold, dark day. Not surprisingly, pure liquid chocolate was once highly sought after for its medicinal qualities dating back thousands of years ago.
Today there are hundreds of variations of hot chocolate. Although some recipes include additional ingredients, all require an essential combination of either cocoa powder or pure chocolate, milk, or water. But that’s where the similarities end. Two versions that could not be more dramatically different is American hot chocolate and Italian hot chocolate, known as cioccolata calda. Unmatched for its creamy richness and density, cioccolata calda is like drinking a warm shake. Being less dense, American hot chocolate shares the same texture as a bowl of soup, even when it’s made with milk.
One of the best places in New York City to experience cioccolata calda is Sant Ambroeus, with several locations including a new downtown edition of the coffee bar recently opened at Brookfield Place. It was in their Madison eatery where I first tried the exquisite Italian-style hot chocolate, and it was indeed an unforgettable moment.
Below, manager Lorenzo Antonelli shares the secret sauce that gives Italian hot chocolate its gold medal status, tips for making this beverage at home, and the delicious Sant Ambroeus recipe.
Can you explain what distinguishes cioccolata calda (Italian hot chocolate) from American hot chocolate?
Cioccolata calda is a very thick drink prepared with cocoa powder, whole milk and a condensing agent. The American version I am familiar with has chocolate as the main ingredient but, with a higher amount of milk, the drink becomes very diluted.
Is there a specific type of chocolate used in the Italian version? How does this differ from the chocolate used in the American version?
I wouldn’t say so. There are premade compounds, some very popular, and the real ingredients: Dutch or Belgian dark cocoa powder mixed with cornstarch and sugar according to taste.
I think this is also true for the American version: some premade, liquid or powder, on the shelves or the favorite chocolate bar or chips. I think both options are popular.
When making cioccolata calda, should you use a chunk of chocolate or chocolate shavings?
The Italian version is usually done with cocoa powder. At Sant Ambroeus, we use chocolate chips, but shavings would work as well.
Besides milk, are there any additional ingredients added to cioccolata calda that aren’t part of the American hot chocolate recipe?
The cornstarch would be the culprit, but at Sant Ambroeus we ditch that one.
Should you use only whole milk when making cioccolata calda? What gives it its thick, pudding-like consistency?
Even the milk is not an imperative. What really gives consistency to the Italian version is the cornstarch (or similars). In our establishments, the milk is replaced with water, the consistency is brought about from the heating technique and the ratio chocolate to liquid.
No agents are admitted.
Do you heat up the chocolate separately?
In my experience, that’s a good way. Melting the chocolate separately allows to have a better feeling of the melting process and more effective stirring.
To achieve more consistency, without using agents, I suggest to bring the chocolate very close to simmer, let it cool down for a few minutes and bring it close to simmer a second time.
How should the milk be prepared? Warm it up on the stove or steam it? How high of a temperature should you heat the milk?
Both methods work; what is important is to stay below boiling (<180F) to prevent the milk from creating lumps.
When do you combine the ingredients together?
I like to combine the ingredients when they are at similar temperatures.
I’ve had cioccolata calda at Sant Ambroeus. The melted chocolate was served separately from the milk. Is this the traditional way to serve this beverage, or is it unique to Sant Ambroeus?
It’s not traditional. I’m not sure if this is unique but, definitely, I have never seen it done by anyone else aside from us.
Better with whipped cream, a marshmallow, or no topping at all?
That’s probably dictated more from geography than taste. I don’t think anyone can rule on that! No toppings for me.
Do you recommend serving cioccolata calda in a particular type of cup or mug?
Yes, a cappuccino cup, with its wider opening, is better than a straight mug because it allows you to see more and to skillfully stir the chocolate, like I learned in childhood.
Sant Ambroeus Cioccolata Calda Recipe
Serves 1
Ingredients:
1⁄2 cup (about 4 ounces) chopped unsweetened 58% Belgian chocolate
⅓ cup hot water
Method:
Place the chocolate in a small saucepan. Pour the hot water over the chocolate. Stir so that the chocolate melts partially. Place over low heat and cook, stirring, until the chocolate has melted completely and the mixture is just beginning to bubble. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool slightly, 10 to 15 minutes, then return to low heat and reheat, stirring, until hot.
For those who prefer a sweeter taste, we serve a side of hot milk with our cioccolata calda.
